Rolling vineyards, cypress trees dot the hills on which small villages with stone houses lie sleepily in the hot sun, you sit on the covered veranda of the winery, an ice-cold rosé in your glass ... sounds like Tuscany - but it's Bosnia and Herzegovina!
Believe me, when I first heard that the Herzegovina wine region produces excellent wines (and has done so for 2,000 years), I was just as surprised as you! But in fact, Herzegovina in the south of the country is one of the oldest wine regions in Europe.
Curious? Then let's take a deep dive into the wine glasses, flavours and past of this small wine country (and of course I'll also tell you which winery produces the best wines!)
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No time for the whole article?
Here's a quick guide:
Although the Herzegovina wine region is small, there are three autochthonous grape varieties to taste here, one of which was almost extinct. So be sure to try Žilavka, Blatina and Trnjak when you're visiting!
Don't miss:
Only have time for one winery? Then head to Emporia Royal Vineyards. Even if you don't book a tasting, you can sample local wines in the restaurant and enjoy a delicious meal. It is also located right between Mostar and Blagaj - directly on the ‘tourist route’.
Where to stay in the wine region
To be able to reach all the wineries quickly and easily, the best place to stay is near Mostar. My favourite is Hotel Buna, which is beautifully situated by the river and even has its own wine cellar!
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Viticulture in Herzegovina in Bosnia: A brief history lesson
Viticulture has existed in Bosnia and Herzegovina for thousands of years. An Illyrian tribe called Daorsi, who inhabited the Mediterranean region of Herzegovina in the south of the country in ancient times, brought viticulture with them from Greece. Later, vines and grapes can even be found on medieval gravestones - a sign that viticulture must have been an important economic sector.
With the arrival of the Ottomans, viticulture almost completely disappeared from the region, with only a few monks and monasteries remaining faithful to wine production. But with the arrival of Austria-Hungary at the end of the 19th century, the tide turned: Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Elisabeth (yes, that's right: Sissi!) liked Herzegovinian wines so much that they even claimed imperial vineyards for themselves - and even today there are still a few wineries that proudly bear the title ‘imperial’.
Unfortunately, two world wars and socialism have not contributed to the further development of the wine region - Bosnia and Herzegovina is still far behind in international comparison. But in recent years, innovative, courageous young winemakers have driven viticulture forward, and have experimented with new ideas and old grape varieties, creating an exciting wine region that is well worth a visit!
The three autochthonous grape varieties of Herzegovina
I remember that on my first visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina, I couldn't order any Bosnian wine at all in the restaurant. The only thing you could get was Croatian graševina from a small 180ml bottle - which had probably been sitting on the shelf for two years. The taste was accordingly 😅 Alternatively: some house wine that had the colour (and taste) of apple cider vinegar and didn't necessarily warm me up to Bosnian wines.
Fortunately, this has now changed! Over the past two to three years, many restaurants in Sarajevo, and throughout the country have added Bosnian wines and winemakers to their menus.
And the quality of the wines has also improved dramatically. What's more, there are actually three indigenous wine varieties in this small country - which means they are only found here in the region. So if you are in Bosnia-Herzegovina, you should look out for these three on the wine lists!
Žilavka
The white grape variety grows throughout Herzegovina and was the most popular grape in the country during the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
Žilavka wines are dry and acidic, yet fresh and fruity. They are the perfect summer wine, although there are also some labels aged in oak barrels.
Blatina
The red grape from the Mostar region is sometimes called the ‘bottomless barrel’ - not easy to grow, functionally feminine (meaning it must be pollinated by another grape variety) and sensitive.
Without Blatina, I probably still wouldn't drink red wines - because before I tried it, I wasn't particularly fond of red wine. The ruby red colour alone is special and Blatina is surprisingly fruity and not too heavy for a red wine.
Trnjak
This second indigenous red grape variety was almost extinct. It is only found in a small micro-location in Bosnia-Herzegovina and Croatia and was allegedly introduced there from France by Napoleon's army.
For years, Trnjak was only used to pollinate Blatina. In 2011, winemaker Nuić from Herzegovina rediscovered the wine - and breathed new life into it.
Trnjak wines are potent, full-bodied and complex - a red wine that I have never tasted anywhere else.
The best boutique wineries for Bosnian wines
Wine tourism is still in its infancy here in Herzegovina. This means that although there are a lot of great, family-run boutique wineries, not all of them have a tasting room and are not permanently open. This means that if you want to do a tasting, you have to book in advance.
Am besten buchst du deshalb einfach eine Weintour, die dich zu den besten Boutique-Weingütern führt und dir die bosnische Weinkultur näherbringt. If you still want to go it alone, then I can warmly recommend these wineries:
Winery Škegro: A young winery where only indigenous varieties are produced to the highest quality. Winemaker Bariša has high standards for his wines and this pays off: Škegro wines can even be found on wine lists in London. The tasting room and vineyards are currently being developed and when everything is ready, this winery will look like a Tuscan dream! All three autochthonous grape varieties can be tasted here.
Vinarija Marijanović: Winegrowing is now in its fourth generation here and winemaker Josip is always ready to show guests around the cellar and introduce them to Herzegovinian wine culture. There is always something going on at the Marijanovićs' - the four children run around, the brother drops by, Josip's wife says hello - so you feel right at home, and at the same time the wines are of really top quality. Here, skill and technique are combined with Herzegovinian cordiality to create a unique mix. At Josip's you can taste Žilavka and Blatina.
Vinarija Milas: A father-son duo who have made it their top priority to produce high-quality wines - and they do. Many of their wines are aged in oak barrels and are therefore very special. You can taste all three indigenous varieties here, but there is no tasting room - but that doesn't matter, because sitting in the middle of the wine barrels with winemaker Tomislav, inhaling the smell of fermentation and chatting about the future of viticulture in Herzegovina is an experience that you probably won't get anywhere else
Emporia Royal Vineyards: This winery has a hotel and restaurant and is therefore the only one where you can simply come to taste wines. For a professional tasting with a tour of the cellar, however, you must make an appointment. Emperor Franz Joseph allegedly had the wine from this winery reserved for his private consumption. You can taste Žilavka and Blatina here.
Vinarija Domano: Formerly an imperial winery, then one of the largest producers during socialism, this winery is now returning to its boutique roots. You can also taste something very special here: the only sparkling wine in the country made from the Žilavka grape using the old champagne method. So good!
Vinarija Bojanić: Tasting at this family winery in Trebinje will make you feel right at home. You can taste Žilavka and the Montenegrin red wine Vranac with the two brothers Stevo and Dimitrji and also visit the vineyards. Here you come as a tourist and go home as a friend of the family.
Galerija Vukoje: I have to admit that the Vukoje wines are not my favourites 🙈 But the restaurant and the tasting room are really beautiful, with a unique view over Trebinje - and as we all know, there's no accounting for taste, so make sure you plan for the fancy tasting experience and a view.
Weingut Puntar: If you're travelling off the beaten track (for example, on your way to Split in Croatia or the Bosnian coastal town of Neum), stop by the Puntar family winery. They have a tiny tasting room where you can sample cuvées created with indigenous and international grape varieties.
Wine tours in Bosnia and Herzegovina
As already mentioned, it can be a bit of a hassle to arrange appointments with winemakers, drive to the tastings, then organize accommodation ...
For this reason, my husband and I have created wine tours in Bosnia and Herzegovina with our boutique travel agency Cheyf - for anyone who is interested in wine, wants to learn more about winegrowing in Herzegovina and simply wants to have a relaxed time and soak up the Herzegovinian way of life. Sounds good? Then read more about our .cheyf wine tours here!
Sounds good? Then read more about our .cheyf wine tours here!
Travel planning for the Herzegovina wine region
Are you still planning your trip to the region? There is an incredible amount to discover in Herzegovina - I would recommend at least three days for Mostar and the surrounding area .
📍 Still need somewhere to stay? These three hotels are centrally located in the wine region and close to most of the wineries I recommended above:
💲 Motel Kolo: Bed & Breakfast on the river Buna with small flats and private pool
💲💲 Hotel Buna: Located directly on the River Buna, with a restaurant under tall plane trees and its own wine cellar
💲💲 Villa Monako: Sleep directly on the vineyard in a guesthouse with a fantastic view over the vineyards
I've been living in the country since 2021 and now know it really well - from restaurants and must-sees to real hidden gems!
For anyone exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina for the first (or second) time, I've collected over 300 spots you shouldn't miss on this easy-to-use travel map and app.
Bosnian wines - a special tasting experience
I hope that you now feel like getting to know these interesting grape varieties and immersing yourself in this culinary part of the country - because yes, Bosnian cuisine is incredibly diverse and wine is an integral part of it.
Wine tourism is still in its infancy, which is why I have not included any fixed routes or suggestions in this article, as appointments have to be made individually with the winegrowers on each day and some wineries close completely for tastings at times of the year such as the harvest - but I promise you: your taste buds will thank you for the effort (and as already mentioned: you can easily take the stress out of planning with an organised wine tour)! Cheers 🥂