Are you planning a holiday here in Bosnia in December and around Christmas? Good choice! Because many of the country's cities have a very special magic. I'll tell you about the most important Christmas traditions.
It’s the most wonderful time of the yearHere in Bosnia and Herzegovina too — just yesterday the lights and decorations for the festive season were put up in Sarajevo and the city is now aglow with lights every evening. But often, people are confused when I tell them about Christmas in Bosnia and Herzegovina: Isn't it a Muslim country?
That's not quite true - Bosnia and Herzegovina is a multi-religious country, in fact around 50% of Bosnians state Islam as their religion. The remaining 50 % are predominantly Christians - Catholic or Orthodox. This means that Christmas is celebrated just as widely here in the country and is just as important a holiday as it is in Western Europe.
But of course it depends a little on the region: You will find many Christmas decorations in Sarajevo , but the real Christmas feeling is more likely to be found in Mostar or Banja Luka , where the majority of the inhabitants also celebrate the Christmas holiday.
And of course the Christians in Bosnia and Herzegovina — depending on the region and denomination — have different Christmas traditions to those you may know from Germany. I would like to introduce you to the most important ones in this article.
Orthodox Christmas in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Around 30% of Bosnians belong to the Serbian Orthodox Church. Their traditions are therefore very similar to the Christmas traditions that you can also find in Serbia—Christian customs are mixed with the region's Slavic heritage.
The most important difference to the Catholics is perhaps the old Julian calendar, according to which the Orthodox Church determines the days of Christmas: 6 January is Christmas Eve, 7 January is Christmas Day. This means that from the beginning of Advent to the end of Orthodox Christmas, there is a festive atmosphere in Bosnia for almost two months - and I love it!
Christmas Eve
There is no Advent season in the classical sense in the Orthodox faith, but the four weeks leading up to Christmas are originally regarded as a period of fasting. On Christmas Eve (the evening of 6 January), the fast is broken with fish soup, fried fish, beans, and potatoes — meat, eggs, and dairy products are traditionally not eaten.
Many Orthodox Christmas traditions are still rooted in the Slavic history of the region and the Slavic belief in nature, including one of the most important traditions on Christmas Eve: the felling of a young oak tree.
The oak (Badnjak), a sacred tree for the old Slavs, is freshly felled in the forest on the morning of Christmas Eve and then brought into the house to be burnt that evening. Traditionally, straw is laid out to symbolize the stable in Bethlehem. Parents often hide sweets in it, which the children then look for.
Those who cannot or do not want to cut down oak trees can simply buy fresh oak branches and burn them to symbolize how the stable was kept warm at Jesus' birth.
Christmas Day
On 7 January, it's time to feast! Soups, roast pork or lamb, Russian salad, cakes and, of course, sarma are served at the Orthodox Christmas table. The latter, pickled cabbage rolls with minced meat and rice, are my absolute favourite winter meal, real soul food! The mother of the house also bakes Česnica, the Christmas bread. It is never cut, only torn by all the family members, and whoever finds the coins hidden in will have luck and prosperity in the New Year.
If you are invited to a Serbian Christmas party, don't wish them a Merry Christmas. The appropriate Christmas greeting is:Mir Božji – Hristos se rodi!’ (Peace of God, Christ is born.) and the correct answer is: ‘Vaistinu se rodi!’ (He is truly born.) You don't feel comfortable with that? Srećan Božić (Merry Christmas) works too.
Traditionally, Orthodox families did not give expensive Christmas presents — but small, heartfelt gifts or sweets are gladly accepted. In recent years, however, this tradition has also changed a little and adapted to Western commercialism.
Catholic Christmas in Bosnia and Herzegovina
Around 15-16% of Bosnians belong to the Catholic faith and celebrate Christmas in a very similar way to what I am used to from my home country, Germany. Nevertheless, there are of course a few fun traditions that differ from the ones you probably grew up with.
I find the numerous small festivals and events that take place during the Advent season particularly exciting. On 6 December, for example, there is the tradition of St Nicholas and Krampus, who puts sticks in the boots of naughty children for their parents to chastise them with.
On 4 December, the Christmas grain is also traditionally planted, which will hopefully sprout thick, green and tall by Christmas Eve—because if it does, it will be a good, successful New Year for the family.
Christmas Eve
On 24 December, the Christmas tree is also festively decorated with the whole family in Croatia, often with ornaments that have been in the family's possession for years. The Christmas tree is often topped with a small gripe.
As in the Orthodox families, Badnjak, an oak log, is burnt—it is supposed to burn all night and throughout Christmas Day. In the meantime, this tradition has become a little less common, especially in the larger cities, and is mainly found in rural areas.
Catholic Bosnians also do not eat meat on Badnji Dan, Christmas Eve. Cod pâté used to be on the menu, as well as fritule/uštipci (fried dough balls). Even today, many families prepare a dinner without meat.
In the evening, the children are given presents under the Christmas tree, as we probably know it from home, and the midnight mass is traditionally attended, which then ushers in the first day of Christmas.
Christmas Day
Catholic Christmas in Bosnia-Herzegovina is all about good food as well. There are Mlinci (a type of lasagne dish that is made into a kind of casserole with turkey, cream, and gravy) or suckling pig. Of course, the sarma cabbage rolls are also a must! Kuglof is the most famous dessert, a yeast cake with sultanas, but there are many other delicious sweet treats, such as fruit, biscuits and chocolate.
If friends invite you to a Catholic Christmas party, you wish them Sretan Božić (Merry Christmas).
Christmas in Bosnia-Herzegovina: Conclusion
Christmas is, of course, a religious celebration that is constantly changing all over the world. New traditions are added, old traditions are lost or revived. And in the end, of course, every family celebrates the way they want and feel most comfortable. Bosnians you know may celebrate Christmas as I have described, perhaps differently -- and none of this is wrong or right. The best thing is to be able to experience an important holiday in another culture up close. Regardless of whether it corresponds to the ‘classic traditions’ or not. With this in mind, have a festive Christmas!
