Beach holidays in Bosnia: Neum - the insider tip on the Adriatic Sea

by Kathi Daniela

Summer holidays in Bosnia and Herzegovina: deep green mountain meadows, balmy summer nights in lively towns, glacial lakes and wild, ice-cold rivers. But that is also: Turquoise, gently rushing Adriatic Sea, the scent of pine trees and freshly grilled fish on the Dalmatian coast. This is: The Neum corridor.

Twenty kilometres of coastline is what Bosnia and Herzegovina calls its own - the second smallest coastline in the world after Monaco. What attractions does Neum offer? What accommodation options does it offer Neum? What is there to discover along the Bosnian coast and in the neighbourhood of Neum? 

I'll tell you all about it in this article - and give you a few local insider tips. After all, I've been living in Bosnia and Herzegovina since 2021 and have discovered one or two local sights since then.

Beach holidays in Bosnia and Herzegovina: cheat sheet

No time to read the whole article?
Here you will find everything you need to know about Neum:

⭐️ The Best time to travel is the low season in May and June or September and October. Neum is less popular than the Croatian coast, but it still gets crowded in summer

🏖️  Plaža Zenit is a less crowded beach just outside the city centre

Neum is generally Cheaper than Croatiabut you don't have such a beautiful old town. It's best to set up your base here and make day trips to Dubrovnik, Split or Mostar

🏛️ Im Hotel Vapore you want central and cosy accommodation, you want a flat, take a look at the Villa Maslina promenade

🎒 Insider tip: why not do a wine tasting at the Puntar boutique winery

Why does Neum belong to Bosnia and Herzegovina?

The only access to the sea that Bosnia and Herzegovina has is the small municipality of Neum, squeezed between the Croatian coast and the Pelješac headland. It is around two hours from both Split and Dubrovnik.

But why is the coastal town of Neum Bosnian-Herzegovinian? 

Centuries ago, the Neum Corridor was a strategically important location that became a point of contention between the two trading rivals Venice and Ragusa (now Dubrovnik). In order to prevent the strengthening of Venice in the region, the Republic of Ragusa gave the Ottoman Empire a narrow buffer zone in the north-west of its coast in the Peace of Karlowitz in 1699: the Neum Corridor. It thus became part of the Ottoman Empire and remained so until Austria-Hungary took over the administration of Bosnia and Herzegovina.  

Even then, Neum remained part of the country - and is still the only Bosnian-Herzegovinian access point to the Adriatic. However, the area was only really developed in the 1950s, when beach tourism slowly began to take root in Neum.

This is reflected in the architecture of the small town of 4,300 souls: you can't expect picturesque alleyways and old towns like in Croatia in the country's only coastal town. However, the bay of Neum is well protected by the Croatian Pelješac peninsula and the water is clear and warm.

What is the best time to travel to Neum?

Anyone who has ever been to Dubrovnik knows that since Game of Thrones discovering the medieval city is like running the gauntlet, where you have to push your way from A to B with thousands of other tourists.

It's easy to fall into tourist traps for lunch or dinner and the beaches on the Croatian Adriatic are often crowded from early in the morning.

In Neum, on the other hand, you can stroll to the beach late in the morning and, with a bit of luck, still get a spot. Of course, Neum is still a coastal town and is also popular with Bosnians, Poles and Czechs due to the lower prices. This means that it also gets quite crowded here in the high season.

The magic word for Neum is the same as for any coastal town on the Adriatic Sea: Low season. May to the beginning of July and September to mid-October are the weeks and months when the weather is good, but the big rush is already over or has not yet started. 

Travelling to Neum

From Sarajevo, it is around three hours to Neum in a hire car, and parts of the route are now motorway - so you can get there quickly and easily. From Mostar, it's even just over an hour.

Alternatively, you can also travel via Dubrovnik Airport in Croatia. You can then spend your holiday on the Dalmatian coast in a hire car, with which you can comfortably explore a wide variety of destinations. This is also great for families with children who are looking for cheap accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina but still want to explore Croatia.

The best hotels & guesthouses in Neum

Hotel Vapore  | Very centrally located, newly built hotel with bar and restaurant and its own beach. We found the food very mediocre.

Hotel Novum | Located just outside the centre, this is a quiet, brand new hotel. Many rooms have a sea view

Villa Maslina  | I haven't stayed here myself yet as it's always fully booked, but the sun loungers under the old olive trees in the garden look sooo cosy - it's on my booking list.

Villa Mimosa | Located directly on the promenade, with cosy rooms, some with balconies, and a shared terrace.

Pansion Babić  | Simple accommodation with small but clean rooms and half board. Also suitable for those on a budget. Five minutes to the beach

Insider tip. I always use booking.com for all my hotel bookings - with the Genius programme I get up to 20 % discount! Click here to go directly to the hotel selection in Neum.

Food & drink: Restaurants in Neum

Compared to the Croatian Adriatic coast, Neum has an advantage that should not be underestimated: it is much cheaper. This means that, with a bit of luck, you can still get hold of accommodation with a balcony and sea view. Or not choke on your mussels in horror when you pick up the bill. 

Well, Neum is not quite as affordable as the rest of Bosnia-Herzegovina for Western European wallets - it is still a coastal town. Nevertheless, you can still save money here - especially if you are travelling with your family - compared to its neighbours Croatia and Montenegro.

My favourite restaurants in Neum

  • Restaurant Bonaca I Has a great terrace and delicious fish dishes. I particularly recommend the anchovies (pictured above!)
  • Restoran Laguna I Things are a little more upmarket here. Restaurant Lagune is definitely suitable for a date night
  • Brod Ivana Floating I On this floating mussel farm you can eat the mussels that grow and are harvested directly under the boat

Insider tip: Wine tasting in Neum

If you've been following me for a while, maybe even on social media, you'll know that I'm a big fan of Bosnian-Herzegovinian wine! The country has two autochthonous grape varieties - Zilavka and Blatina - which are cultivated in the Herzegovina region.

The Puntar family winery in Neum creates exciting cuvées with indigenous and international grape varieties and you can taste their signature wines in a cosy atmosphere in their tasting room above Neum. Highly recommended!

Address: Neretvanska 49, Neum

Want more tips and must-sees for Bosnia and Herzegovina?

I've been living in the country since 2021 and now know it really well - from restaurants and must-sees to real hidden gems!

For anyone exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina for the first (or second) time, I've put together this handy travel map and app for you. over 300 spots that you should not miss.

The best beaches in Neum

Like most of the Croatian coast, you'll have to be prepared for pebbly beaches in Neum. So flip-flops are a must! There are no real secret beaches here, as the town is small and the beach holidaymakers are spread out. Nevertheless, it is simply less crowded than the rest of the Dalmatian coast.

Plaža Jazina

This beach with toilet is located at the end of the village of Neum. It is best to walk there, as parking spaces are difficult to come by. It can get crowded here, so if you want to hire a deckchair, get there early. Be sure to bring a parasol.

Plaža Meredek

Located outside of Neum, this beach is often less busy. This is also because you have to get there by car. Parking is possible for a small fee.

Plaža Zenit

Also located just outside the centre of Neum, it is often a little less busy here. The beach is also not close to the large hotels, so it is not flooded with hotel guests.

Plaža Mimoza

You can lie on rocks under pine trees here. Yes, you'll have to search a bit to find a cosy spot, but you'll be sharing the small bays, which are separated from each other by rocks, mostly only with locals. 

Day trips from Neum

The only Bosnian coastal town has a pretty perfect location: one hour's drive to Dubrovnik, two hours' drive to Split and one and a half hours' drive to Makarska. And it is precisely this location that makes Neum the perfect starting point for exploring the most beautiful towns on the Dalmatian Adriatic coast.

Day trip to Split

Standing at Diocletian's Palace and realising that people lived, celebrated, toiled and cried here 2,000 years ago is truly an incredible feeling! Of course, this ancient building complex is a must-see when visiting Split.

But I can also highly recommend a hike up Marjan Hill - from here you have a great view of the old town and the Adriatic coast.

From Neum to Dubrovnik

Not only since Game of Thrones Dubrovnik is a tourist magnet - and rightly so: the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town is beautiful! The best time to visit it is early in the morning or late in the afternoon, before or after the cruise ships arrive and clog up the streets with travellers.

Also a must in Dubrovnik: a visit to the island of Lokrum, which is the subject of a dark legend. You can read them here.

Discover Mostar and the old Stari Most bridge 

Bosnia and Herzegovina's third largest city is well known, not least because of the Old Bridge - Ottoman architecture and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

But Mostar is also worth a visit away from the old bridge - the best thing to do is simply stroll through the old town, let yourself drift and relax by the Neretva River.

You can read more about Mostar here.

Local insider tip: Stolac

The oldest settlement in Bosnia-Herzegovina was already inhabited in Roman times. The picturesque little town is perfect for a stroll and, if it's not too hot, you can also hike up to the castle ruins.

Also particularly exciting: the Stećci - medieval gravestones, thousands of which have been found in Bosnia and Herzegovina and whose origin is still not entirely clear. The largest cemetery near Stolac, Radimlja, is a World Heritage Site.

Travel planning for Bosnia-Herzegovina made easy

💸 What is the currency of Bosnia and Herzegovina?
In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the convertible mark (KM for short) is used for payment. It has been the currency of Bosnia and Herzegovina since 22 June 1998 and was pegged to the German mark at a ratio of 1:1 until 2001 and to the euro since 2002. One euro is always exactly 1.95583 KM). The conversion is therefore very simple.

🇧🇦 What language is spoken in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
The official languages of the country are Bosnian, Serbian and Croatian, but there are hardly any linguistic differences between them - I always compare them to German and Austrian. Serbian, however, uses Cyrillic letters, which can lead to confusion in the Republika Srpska part of the country. The best thing to do is to download Google Translate, which also allows you to take photos of Cyrillic menus or street signs and have them translated.

💉 Do I need international health insurance for Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Absolutely! You should never, never, never travel without international health insurance. Bosnia and Herzegovina is also not in the EU, which means that your German health insurance covers the country. not with. I am always happy to recommend other travellers SafetyWing. For less than one euro per day, you can insure yourself here and also protect yourself against the risks of extreme sports, lost luggage and other travelling ailments.

📲 Can I use European roaming in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
No, as Bosnia and Herzegovina is not in the EU, your roaming package does not apply here. You can either buy a SIM card locally at a kiosk for a few marks or simply get an eSIM like Airalo, which you can even use for other countries after your trip to Bosnia. You can download the Airalo app here.

🪂 Which tour operator is recommended for my trip to Bosnia?
Together with my Bosnian partner, I founded the boutique travel agency .Cheyf in 2022. We have combined our experience of sustainable tourism in places like South Africa with our knowledge of Bosnia and the way of life in Bosnia. ćejf united - savouring the little moments that make life worth living. This has resulted in tours that convey sustainability, local experiences and communities and a real attitude to life. Here you can take a look at our tours and get to know Cheyf better.

🗺️ I would like to travel without a travel agency, are there any ready-made routes?
Yes! I offer an interactive travel map for the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with several ready-made itineraries and lots of restaurants and insider tips. And best of all, the map is regularly updated and expanded, meaning you always have the latest recommendations in your pocket. Click here for the interactive travel guide.

💦 Can I drink the tap water in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
You can drink the water in large cities without hesitation. Bottled water is recommended after heavy rainfall or flooding and in rural areas. 

🛬 Where can I find the best flights to Bosnia and Herzegovina?
You can find the cheapest flights on Kiwi - where you can compare prices directly.

🏯 Where can I find the best accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Most accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina, including private accommodation, is often offered at Booking.com set. In addition to hotels, you can also book flats or guesthouses here and directly support the Bosnian population with your stay.

🛵 Where can I book a hire car for my trip to Bosnia?
On Rentalcars.com you can choose from a wide range of hire cars and compare prices. I recommend that you always book with fully comprehensive insurance. The German driving licence is valid, so you don't need to pack an international driving licence.

This blog article contains personal recommendations in the form of affiliate links. If you book or buy something via the links, I will receive a small commission. This does not change the price for you at all. Thank you for your support.