Blagaj: Sights and guide to the village with the dervish monastery

by Kathi Daniela

A monastery complex with whitewashed walls and stone roof shingles clinging to a rock, you have to lean your head far back to see the sky, the rock face rises so high. And while your gaze is still so far upwards that your neck hurts, you feel a cool breeze and hear the roar of the Buna, which shoots with great force from its source right next to the monastery...

Blagaj is now world-famous for the Tekija, a dervish monastery. Unfortunately, most travellers only stay in the village south of Mostar for around 60 minutes, perhaps 120 if they have lunch. Then it's time to move on.

Which is a pity! Because there is much more to discover in Blagaj than just the dervishes' tekija. I also had to visit the village in Herzegovina a few times to get to know all the sights and insider tips. But thanks to local friends and an insatiable thirst for discovery, I can now present you with a little guide to the best sights in Blagaj!

This blog article contains personal recommendations in the form of affiliate links. If you book or buy something via the links, I will receive a small commission. This does not change the price for you at all. Thank you for your support.

The most beautiful sights in Blagaj: quick overview

No time to read the whole article?
Here are my Top tips and sights for Blagaj:

☀️ Blagaj ist ein Mediterranean destination with beautiful riverswhere you can relax
🧡 Be sure to watchThe old dervish monastery and the river Bunica
🛶 Best activities: Kayak trip on the Bunica, wine tasting
🛏️ Best accommodation: Motel Kolo
📱 Stay connected: For mobile data you can use the Airalo Bosnia data package get
🛵 Insider tipPark your car herethen you can take a relaxed stroll to the dervish monastery

The most important facts about Blagaj

Blagaj is located in the south-east of Mostar (You can find an itinerary for three perfect days in Mostar here) in the Mediterranean Herzegovina at the source of Buna. The name itself "blaga" means mild - presumably it comes from the pleasant climate, always a little cooler than Mostar.

Today's urban area was already inhabited in ancient Illyrian times, was later ruled by dukes of the Bosnian kingdom and finally fell under Ottoman rule in the 15th century.

The whole village stands out for its architecture and location on the provisional UNESCO list and officially belongs to the most beautiful villages in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

What awaits you in Blagaj

  • Ottoman and medieval architecture: From medieval castle ruins to Ottoman residential complexes and bridges, you will find a wide variety of architectural styles in the village along the River Buna
  • Wonderful river landscapes: The Buna and Bunica rivers rise in Blagaj, both only a few kilometres long, but with ice-cold, clear water and various swimming opportunities
  • Mediterranean flair: Mostar's "little sister" has the same Mediterranean charm as the Herzegovinian capital, but is much slower and more relaxed away from the touristy Tekija

How long should you plan for Blagaj?

Most visitors only stay in Blagaj for an hour or two, enjoy the view of the Buna spring from the dervish monastery, perhaps eat some trout and move on.

But you can easily spend the whole day here, whether you want to be active in sports or are interested in culture. I would even recommend staying overnight in Blagaj. If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Mostar, you'll find lots of great accommodation here.

💡 My tip: I always book accommodation via booking.com. With Genius Level 3, I get a guaranteed discount - up to 25 per cent for some accommodations - and sometimes there are also great extras, such as a free breakfast or upgrade. For Level 3, you have to make 15 bookings via the platform within 2 years. Level 2 is even available for just five bookings. Find the best accommodation in Blagaj.

The eight best things to do and see in Blagaj

Visit to the Blagaj Tekija (dervish monastery)

The Dervish Monastery is now a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As such, the building, which was built at the beginning of the 15th century, is no longer inhabited but is now a museum. It is located directly at the karst spring of the river Buna, which is hidden in the cave next to the monastery. The rock faces behind the complex also rise almost 200 metres - the medieval fortress of Stjepangrad towers above them.

Today you can visit the museum and see how the Sufi order lived here in Ottoman times. A visit to the museum is also educational to learn more about Islam and its different orientations. You can find all the information about visiting the dervish monastery here.

Insider tip: Park your car hereThen you can take a relaxed stroll to the dervish monastery without the crowds and you can also peek inside the normally closed complex of the Velagić estate

Boat trip on the Bunica

The Bunica is a short river - only about 10 kilometres long, but unique. The depth of its source has still not been determined with certainty, but it is certainly more than 70 metres underground - making it one of the deepest springs in Europe. Due to the great difference in altitude, the Bunica's water also flows out of its source at an enormous speed.

Nevertheless, a boat trip on the river is a calm and relaxing pleasure. In the crystal-clear water, you can observe endemic trout (a speciality of the region) and also soak up the panorama - no comparison to the hectic Kravica waterfalls, here you may even be all alone on the boat.

Do you prefer to be more active when travelling? Then you can also book a kayak tour on the Bunica.

Book Bunica Boating?

Together with my Bosnian husband, I have 2022 Cheyf a boutique travel agency for mindful travelling in Bosnia-Herzegovina. 

Our speciality? Customised trips where you can really get in touch with locals and immerse yourself in Bosnia. Contact us for a non-binding, customised travel offer!

Hike to Stjepangrad Fortress

The Stjepangrad fortress - also known as the Stjepangrad fortress - towers over the 200 metre high rock face on which the tekke is nestled. Star Grad Blagaj (Old Town). The area where the ruins of the castle stand today was already inhabited in the Iron Age.

The most famous ruler of the fortress was Duke Stjepan Vukčić Kosača during the time of the Bosnian kingdom, after which the fortress fell into the hands of the Ottomans.

Today you can visit the ruins above Blagaj and from up there you have a fantastic view over Herzegovina and its barren Mediterranean landscape. The hike is short (less than a kilometre) and not too steep - so it can also be done with an average level of fitness. Just don't underestimate the heat, so: Always pack a hat and water bottle.

📍 Starting point of the hike and car park

Photo: Hongbin on Unsplash

Climbing the Via Ferrata Blagaj

The high rock faces around Blagaj are not only great for hikers, but also for adventurers - there are numerous Via Ferratas around Mostar and throughout Bosnia-Herzegovina, but the one in Blagaj is one of the best known, as it is also suitable for beginners. You can book a guided tour with all the equipment here.

You will spend around three hours on the via ferrata in the Podružje canyon, climbing along the stream bed and past cascades and waterfalls. From the ridge of the canyon on the way back, you have an incredible view of the Neretva and the plains of Herzegovina.

I haven't tried the via ferrata myself yet (fear of heights, hello! I'm working on conquering it...), but I think the views look great and friends of mine are regular visitors to the crags.

Powered by GetYourGuide

Relax and unwind in the Lazy Bar

Located directly on the banks of the River Buna, this alternative bar has a totally chilled vibe in the summer months - you could transport it straight to Berlin. You sit on colourful furniture, jump into the water to cool off or simply relax under the cooling trees while listening to lounge music.

The entrance down to the bar and the campsite next door is a bit tricky to find. You have to turn off here.

Discover the art of Bosnian coffee at the Blagaj Museum

This museum, run by the Bosnian couple Sabiha and Haso, is a real insider tip in Blagaj. Haso has spent decades collecting artefacts and antiques from all over Bosnia and Herzegovina. They are now on display in their family's typically Herzegovinian, restored stone house.

Entry to the museum, which the two run out of love for their country and culture, is free of charge. For a small fee, you can also learn from Sabiha how Bosnian coffee is made - from roasting it over an open fire to eating it with a fig cake.

Eating trout at Restoran Vrelo

One of Blagaj's specialities is river trout, which thrives in the Buna and Bunica rivers. With a beautiful view of the River Buna, you can enjoy freshly caught fish served freshly grilled with blitva (a type of chard) and potatoes in this restaurant - a must. 

Wine tasting at the imperial-royal Emporia winery

Located between Mostar and Blagaj, this winery used to produce red wines exclusively for the Austrian court in Vienna. Today the Emporia Winery also specialises in white varieties and cuvées with local and foreign grapes. 

A wine tasting here is a real deep dive into the wine history of Herzegovina and for me an opulent end to a day in Blagaj. You can find out more about Bosnian wines and other great wineries in the immediate vicinity here.

Want more tips and must-sees for Herzegovina?

I've been living in the country since 2021 and now know it really well - from restaurants and must-sees to real hidden gems!

For anyone exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina for the first (or second) time, I've put together this handy travel map and app for you. over 300 spots that you should not miss.

How to get to Blagaj

To explore Herzegovina, I would recommend a Rental car recommend. This way you are always flexible, whether you set up your base in Mostar or elsewhere. However, it is also possible to travel from Mostar by taxi or bus or by a guided tour of Herzegovina possible.

Hotel tip

💲 Motel KoloDirectly at the Buna with swimming pool
💲💲 Hotel Buna: Beautiful boutique hotel with large garden restaraunt
💲💲💲 Villa Kozor: A whole villa just for you

Other activities in and around Blagaj

Powered by GetYourGuide

My conclusion about Blagaj

There is definitely more to see in the village near Mostar than just the old monastery complex at the Buna river cave. If you want to soak up more of the Herzegovinian way of life and simply want to relax a little - by or on the river - then I would definitely recommend spending a whole day relaxing in Blagaj or perhaps even staying overnight in accommodation right by the river.