Who says there are no things to do in Sarajevo in winter? We're talking about an Olympic city after all. If you're considering a trip to Bosnia's capital in December, January or February, here are my personal, local tips as someone who's lived here for four years.
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I love Sarajevo in the summer—the Hikes, the Film Festival, or the balmy summer nights. But the city also has a lot to offer in winter. This year is my fifth winter in the city. And even though Sarajevo has a bad reputation during the cold months—smog (which we only have for a few weeks a year!), boredom, no activities—I have to say: that's not true. Winter is theater and opera season. Winter is the time for the Olympic mountains and, of course, Christmas markets!
Best things to do in Sarajevo for your winter holidays
Take a stroll through Baščaršija
Around December 10th, the Christmas lights come up in all of Sarajevo's old town. You can stroll from Sebilj, past the Latin Bridge where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated and all along Maršala Tita Street for the best Christmas lights and decorations. There are always trees in front of the Cathedral and the Sarajevo City Hall as well.
And the best thing about the Christmas ornaments? They stay up until after Orthodox Christmas which happens on January 6th and 7th, so you can enjoy them even after Christmas and New Year's Eve.
Walk along the bob track from the 1974 Winter Olympics
You can't be exploring Sarajevo without making your way up to Trebević for the bobsleigh track from 1984! Not in use anymore, the track is covered in graffiti and has become a perfect lost place to visit for photos or a walk. You can take the cable car up and down or just get a one-way ticket and walk along the old tracks down into the city.
In the winter season, the abandoned bobsleigh track can be icy and dangers to walk on, but you will find trails that are perfect to hike right along it in case you cannot walk on it.
Go on a food tour
No better time to enjoy proper Bosnian comfort food than the winter season: Think sarma (cabbage rolls), stews like grah (bean soup) and goulash, or deliciously hearty filled vegetables. You can taste different dishes of the Bosnian cuisine on a food walking tour through the neighbourhood Grbavica (with my husband).
Drink mulled wine at the Sarajevo holiday markets
In the past couple of years, more and more Christmas markets have sprung up in Sarajevo as well, and they have all that you could hope for: Ice-skating rinks (okay, small ones, but still!), mulled wine, sweets and some Christmas ornaments and souvenirs to purchase. The best ones are:
Sarajevo Holiday Market on Wilson's Promenade (all through December & January)
Christmas Market in front of the Cathedral (starts just before Christmas)
Christmas Market at the freedom square (with a small ice skating rink)
Christmas Market at Skenderija (with ice skating rink)
Drink coffee like a Bosnian
I always say that coffee is the backbone of Bosnian society and it's true: No meeting is complete without a cup or two. There are two super iconic places to drink coffee in Sarajevo:
Kuća Sevdaha – a café in an old Ottman merchant's home where you can drink proper Bosnian coffee. It's served the traditional way, in a small dzezva (the coffee can) with sugar and rahat lokum (a Turkish delight kind of sweet).
Bečka Kafana (Wiener Café) – a proper Viennese Kaffeehaus, located right in the heart of Sarajevo in the oldest hotel in the city. Sitting down here feels like a little time travel to the times when Austria-Hungary ruled Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Museums and galleries to visit
My museum recommendations
War Childhood Museum
Planet Sarajevo Museum
Galerie 11/07/95
National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Museum of the Jews of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Svrzo’s House
Sarajevo City Hall
Art galleries
National Gallery of Bosnia and Herzegovina
Novi Hram Gallery
Manifesto gallery for contemporary art
Art and culture in Sarajevo are generally very affordable. If you feel like going to the theater (in an old Austro-Hungarian building with beautiful chandeliers and boxes!), then be sure to check out the repertoire of the Bosnian National Theater. You can buy tickets online here..
Christmas and NYE Bosnia and Herzegovina
If you're planning a winter holiday in Sarajevo, you might want to come around new year's eve because every year, the city of Sarajevo throws a free new year's concert for its citizens. In front of the Eternal Flam, right in the center of the city, a different local artist will perform each year–and the entrance is completely free!
Christmas in Sarajevo is a more quiet affair since a majority of the population enjoy the holiday season but does not celebrate Christmas as a holiday. You can definitely take a Christmas Eve walk, and visit the Holy Mass at the Sacred Heart Cathedral. We've now gone twice for a sneak peak and it's a really beautiful atmosphere. If you want to learn more about Christmas traditions througout Bosnia and Herzegovina, I wrote an article about it here..
Five days in Sarajevo: The perfect winter getaway
Who says Sarajevo is only a summer destination? I've also grown to love winter there, which is why I've put together the perfect five days in Sarajevo in winter:culture, nature, and cuisine.
Weather in Sarajevo: December, January, February
Sarajevo’s winters have an April personality: sometimes moody, sometimes magical, with snow, sun and smog in one day.
The average temperature between December, January and February usually sits just below freezing, at least in the past couple of years. You never know though: We've had nights up to -15 degrees celsius as well. As for the snow: You can't predict anything.
From powder-covered streets in earls November to grey Christmas I've seen it all in the past year. The Olympic mountains do have snow normally though, at least from January.
In short: expect cold, pack warm, and be ready to all kinds of weathers.
Winter sports on Sarajevo's winter olympic mountains
As host city of the 1984 winter olympics, the ski resorts around Sarajevo offer great infrastructure and a variety of slopes for skiers and snowboarders. On Jahorina, Bjelašnica or Igman you can expect winter hiking, snow-covered landscapes, and proper après ski atmosphere. Snow conditions have varied quite a bit though in the last years, since the olympic centers are only around 2,000 meters high.
Don't expect super cheap skiing either – these ski resorts are not a secret tip in the region, and even though they're cheaper than Italy, France or Austria, prices here have gone up as well. Still, the ski resorts near Sarajevo are a great option for affordable skiing in the center of Europe!
Season and weekend passes for the ski slopes at Bjelašnica can be found here.
Information about skiing and prices for ski passes at Jahorina can be found here.
Where to stay in the ski resorts around Sarajevo:
- Bjelašnica: Hotel & Spa Nomad
- Jahorina: Hotel Rajska Dolina
- Igman: Monti Hotel & Spa
Is Sarajevo in winter worth visiting?
I am no winter person, but...Sarajevo winter is kind of different. And not because of the winter wonderland or the richt history of the olympic games. It's the mix of customs and cultures–Catholica Christmas, Orthodox Christmas, Hannukah, New Year's Eve celebrations–and the warm hospitality of the city that makes a winter getaway to Bosnia's capital a truly special trip!
Despite cold weather, and short days, there's a special magic, and if you want to feel it, winter is the perfect time to visit.
