How is it that this small country simply cannot detach itself from its past? That the first search results that Google spits out still revolve around travel safety, the disintegration of Yugoslavia and the terrible events of the early 1990s? It seems as if Bosnia and Herzegovina is condemned to relive its past over and over again - without any chance of closure. Like an ex who keeps calling, the war comes crawling back, nationalism is present in everyday life, sometimes better and sometimes worse suppressed.
And yet: hardly anyone can escape the magic of Bosnia-Herzegovina. Anyone who has been there once and loved it will come back again and again, unable to get enough of this unusual mixture of past and modernity, dreams of the future and shadows of long-lost eras. I would even go so far as to say that Bosnia-Herzegovina should be on every traveller's bucket list. Because this country has taught me so much: modesty, reverence, beauty and tolerance.
The good and the bad are so close together here and one thing is certain... there are at least seven places that you have to see here - if not more!
#1 jajce
bosnia's old royal city
Roaring water that sprays us with a rainbow of drops on the small viewing platform, a waterfall in the middle of the city - the Pliva, which plunges 17 metres into the depths before joining up with the Vrbas.
This is not the only thing to see in Jajce - the small town in the north-west of Bosnia-Herzegovina is also a former royal city of the Bosnian rulers and therefore also has a well-preserved old town and fortress to offer.
The city has retained its regal grandeur over the years, reclaiming its identity after the war - and has not let itself be beaten down, but has proudly made its past visible again to all visitors.
When you visit Jajce, you should definitely:
- Take a photo of the Pliva waterfalls with the castle in the background
- Hike up to the castle to enjoy the best view of the city
- Explore Lake Pliva on a pedalo
#2 MLinčići
the small village of mills
Arriving in Mlinčići feels like taking a deep breath. The cheerful gurgling and gurgling water and the small wooden mills that defy the noisy stream unimpressed, plus all the trees whose leaves crackle in the breeze. It's difficult to be stressed here.
Located directly at the junction between the large and small Pliva Lake, the wooden huts are connected by small footbridges. There used to be twenty-six of them, but only twenty remain today.
Rich landowners built the small mills, the first as early as the 16th century, and rented them out to their tenants so that they could grind flour there. Today, the small buildings are witnesses to Bosnian craftsmanship.
#3 PočitelJ
the artists' village
Less than 1,000 people live in this open-air museum, many of them artists. The small town of Počitelj is widely known in Bosnia as an artists' village.
Although badly damaged in the war, Pocitelj has managed to retain its charm and character even after the renovation of the destroyed buildings, and the towers of the castle, mosque and the omnipresent clock tower once again watch over the small town.
When you visit Počitelj, you should definitely:
- Buy fresh pomegranate juice from one of the women on the way up to the castle
- Climb the castle for the best view
- Visit the Šišman Ibrahim-immersed mosque
#4 Mostar
stari most - the old bridge
In the morning, in the evening, at night - I don't know how many times I've photographed the iconic bridge and how many pictures of its majestic form are floating around on my hard drive ...
Built in 1566, it is a true masterpiece of Ottoman architecture, 19 metres high, which still connects the two parts of the city today.
But Mostar is more than just Stari Most. I recommend you stay overnight and explore the city and the surrounding area a little more closely.
When you visit Mostar, you should definitely:
- Dip your toes in the icy cold Neretva. It is the coldest river in the world
- Cheering on the bridge jumpers who jump from the Stari Most
- Find the Bruce Lee statue
- Explore the city outside the bazaar
#5 Una National­park
Bosnia's most beautiful waterfall: Strbački Buk
We hear it even before we see it. This thunderous roar of hundreds and hundreds of litres of water pouring into the depths. The trees around us are deep green, the River Una, which will plunge a few metres further into the depths, flows calmly and emerald green...
The 25 metre high Strbački Buk waterfall is the border between Bosnia-Herzegovina and Croatia. Situated in the Una National Park, this special waterfall consists of several falls in a row, as well as many small waterfalls that flow through the green forests.
Strbački Buk is not the only waterfall and natural wonder to be found in Una National Park. He is the perfect place for hiking - the whole area is full of forests, streams and magical hidden gems. It was not for nothing that the Romans called the river "The One" thousands of years ago.
If you are in Una National Park, you should definitely:
- Visit the Martin Brod and Strbački Buk waterfalls
- Spend an afternoon in Japodski Otoci
- Take a raft trip (or rafting) on the Una
#6 Sarajevo
the spirit of the olympic games
Sarajevo was the venue for the 1984 Winter Olympics. And even if not much of the old splendour remains, the destroyed bobsleigh track at least gives a small insight into the glory of 1984.
With many bends, it winds its way down Trebević, Sarajevo's local mountain. A walk along or up it is a must for every visitor to the capital.
Today, the track is used by bobsleigh teams from the region as a training track in summer and the city's graffiti artists immortalise themselves on it - you never know what work of art might be waiting around the next corner!
#7 Blagaj
the old dervish monastery
My gaze wanders upwards and I have to tilt my head back to see the top of the rock on which the old dervish monastery is nestled.
Since the 15th century, this place at the source of the river Buna has been a spiritual destination and a special sight. Even today, dervishes still sing to Allah here three times a week.
But even for non-believers, this place is an impressive witness to the time and architectural art of the Ottomans. Is the old dervish monastery a tourist hotspot? Yes! But is it worth seeing? Yes, absolutely! The best times to visit are, like everywhere else, in the morning or early evening.
If you're looking for a good view, you should also hike up to Stjepangrad Fortress, which towers over the small town, and enjoy the view of the surrounding area from there. From the monastery, it takes around an hour to get to the castle ruins from the 2nd or 3rd century!
