Beach holidays in Bosnia: Neum - the best-kept secret on the Adriatic Sea

by Kathi Daniela

A summer holiday in Bosnia and Herzegovina means deep green mountain meadows, balmy summer nights in lively towns, glacial lakes and wild, ice-cold rivers. But it is also the turquoise Adriatic Sea, the scent of pine trees and freshly grilled fish on the Dalmatian coast. This is: The Neum Corridor.

Twenty kilometres of coast, that is how much Bosnia and Herzegovina gets – the second smallest coastline in the world after Monaco. What attractions does Neum offer? What accommodation options does it offer Neum? What is there to discover along the Bosnian coast and in the neighbourhood of Neum? 

I'll tell you all about it in this article - and give you a few local insider tips. After all, I've been living in Bosnia and Herzegovina since 2021 and have discovered one or two local sights since then.

Beach holidays in Bosnia and Herzegovina: cheat sheet

Don't have time to read the whole article?
Here you will find everything you need to know about Neum:

⭐️ The best time to visit is the shoulder season in May and June or September and October. Neum is less popular than the Croatian coast, but it still gets crowded in summer

🏖️  Plaža Zenit is a less crowded beach just outside the city centre

💵 Neum is generally cheaper than Croatia, but you don't have such a beautiful old town. It's best to base yourself here and take day trips to Dubrovnik, Split or Mostar

🏛️ The Hotel Vapore offers central and cosy accommodation, if you want a flat, take a look at Villa Maslina .

🎒 Insider tip: why not do a wine tasting at the Puntar boutique winery

Why is Neum part of Bosnia and Herzegovina?

The only access to the sea that Bosnia and Herzegovina has is the small municipality of Neum, squeezed between the Croatian coast and the Pelješac headland. It is around two hours from both Split and Dubrovnik.

But why is the coastal town of Neum Bosnian-Herzegovinian? 

Centuries ago, the Neum Corridor was a strategically important location that became a point of contention between the two trading rivals Venice and Ragusa (now Dubrovnik). In order to prevent the strengthening of Venice in the region, the Republic of Ragusa gave the Ottoman Empire a narrow buffer zone in the north-west of its coast in the Peace of Karlowitz in 1699: the Neum Corridor. It thus became part of the Ottoman Empire and remained so until Austria-Hungary took over the administration of Bosnia and Herzegovina.  

Even then, Neum remained part of the country - and is still the only Bosnian-Herzegovinian access point to the Adriatic. However, the area was only really developed in the 1950s, when beach tourism slowly began to take root in Neum.

This is reflected in the architecture of the small town of 4,300 souls: you can't expect picturesque alleyways and old towns like in Croatia in the country's only coastal town. However, the bay of Neum is well protected by the Croatian Pelješac peninsula and the water is clear and warm.

What is the best time to visit Neum?

Anyone who has ever been to Dubrovnik knows that, since Game of Thrones , discovering the medieval city isn't as relaxing as it used to be, you have to push your way from A to B with thousands of other tourists.

It's easy to walk into tourist traps for lunch or dinner and the beaches on the Croatian Adriatic are often crowded from early in the morning.

In Neum, on the other hand, you can stroll to the beach late in the morning and, with a bit of luck, still get a spot. Of course, Neum is still a coastal town and is also popular with Bosnians, Poles and Czechs due to the lower prices. This means that it also gets quite crowded here in the high season.

The magic word for Neum is the same as for any coastal town on the Adriatic: shoulder season. May to early July and September to mid-October are the weeks and months when the weather is good, but the big crowds are already over or have not yet started. 

How to get to Neum

From Sarajevo, it is around three hours to Neum in a hire car, and parts of the route are now motorway - so you can get there quickly and easily. From Mostar, it's even just over an hour.

Alternatively, you can also travel via Dubrovnik Airport in Croatia. You can then spend your holiday on the Dalmatian coast in a hire car, with which you can comfortably explore a wide variety of destinations. This is also great for families with children who are looking for cheap accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina but still want to explore Croatia.

The best hotels & guesthouses in Neum

Hotel Vapore  | Very centrally located, newly built hotel with bar and restaurant and its own beach. We found the food very mediocre.

Hotel Novum  | Located just outside the centre, this is a quiet, brand new hotel. Many rooms have a sea view

Villa Maslina  | I haven't stayed here myself yet as it's always fully booked, but the sun loungers under the old olive trees in the garden look sooo cosy - it's on my booking list.

Villa Mimosa  | Located directly on the promenade, with cosy rooms, some with balconies, and a shared terrace.

Pansion Babić  | Simple accommodation with small but clean rooms and half board. Also suitable for those on a budget. Five minutes to the beach

Insider tip: I always use booking.com for all my hotel bookings - with the Genius programme I get up to 20% discount! You can book the best hotels in Neum here.

Where to eat and drink in Neum

Compared to the Croatian Adriatic coast, Neum has an advantage that should not be underestimated: it is much cheaper. This means that, with a bit of luck, you can still get hold of accommodation with a balcony and sea view. Or not choke on your mussels in horror when you pick up the bill. 

Well, Neum is not quite as affordable as the rest of Bosnia-Herzegovina for Western European wallets - it is still a coastal town. Nevertheless, you can still save money here - especially if you are travelling with your family - compared to its neighbours Croatia and Montenegro.

My favourite restaurants in Neum

  • Restaurant Bonaca I Has a great terrace and delicious fish dishes. I particularly recommend the anchovies (pictured above!)
  • Restoran Laguna I Things are a little more upmarket here. Restaurant Lagune is definitely suitable for a date night
  • Brod Ivana Floating I On this floating mussel farm you can eat the mussels that grow and are harvested directly under the boat

Insider tip: Wine Tasting in Neum

If you've been following me for a while, maybe even on social media, you probably know that I'm a big fan of Bosnian-Herzegovinian wine! The country has two autochthonous grape varieties - Zilavka and Blatina - which are grown in the Herzegovina region.

The Puntar family winery in Neum creates exciting cuvées with autochthonous and international grape varieties and you can taste their signature wines in a cosy atmosphere in their tasting room above Neum. Highly recommended!

Adress: Neretvanska 49, Neum

Want more tips and must-sees for Bosnia and Herzegovina?

I've been living in the country since 2021 and now know it really well - from restaurants and must-sees to real hidden gems!

For anyone exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina for the first (or second) time, I've collected over 300 spots you shouldn't miss on this easy-to-use travel map and app.

Die besten Strände in Neum

Wie ein Großteil der kroatischen Küste musst du dich auch in Neum auf Kieselstrände einstellen. Badelatschen sind also Pflicht! Wirklich geheime Strände gibt es hier keine, denn der Ort ist klein und die Badeurlauber verteilen sich. Aber dennoch ist es einfach weniger voll als der Rest der dalmatinischen Küste.

Plaža Jazina

Dieser Strand mit Toilette liegt am Dorfende von Neum. Am besten zu Fuß hinspazieren, da Parkplätze schwierig zu kriegen sind. Hier kann es voll werden, wenn du also einen Liegestuhl mieten möchtest, dann sei rechtzeitig dort. Bring auf jeden Fall einen Sonnenschirm mit.

Plaža Meredek

Außerhalb von Neum gelegen, ist an diesem Strand oft weniger los. Auch, da man mit dem Auto anfahren muss. Parken ist gegen einen kleinen Obolus möglich.

Plaža Zenit

Ebenfalls etwas außerhalb des Zentrums von Neum gelegen, so ist hier oft etwas weniger los. Der Strand ist außerdem nicht in der Nähe der großen Hotels, sodass er nicht mit Hotelgästen überschwemmt wird.

Plaža Mimoza

Auf Felsen unter Pinienbäumen liegen – das kannst du hier. Ja, du musst ein bisschen suchen, bis du ein gemütliches Plätzchen findest, dafür teilst du dir die kleinen, durch Felsen voneinander getrennten Buchten überwiegend nur mit Locals. 

Tagesausflüge von Neum

Die einzige bosnische Küstenstadt hat eine ziemlich perfekte Lage: Eine Stunde Fahrtzeit nach Dubrovnik, zwei Stunden Fahrzeit nach Split und eineinhalb Stunden Fahrzeit nach Makarska. Und eben die Lage macht Neum zum perfekten Ausgangspunkt für Erkundungstouren in die schönsten Städte der dalmatnischen Adriaküste.

Tagesausflug nach Split

Am Diokletianpalast zu stehen und zu wissen, dass schon vor 2.000 Jahren hier Menschen gelebt, gefeiert, geschuftet und geweint haben, ist wirklich ein unglaubliches Gefühl! Natürlich ist dieser antike Baukomplex bei einem Besuch von Split ein Must-See.

Aber auch eine Wanderung auf den Marjan-Berg kann ich nur allerwärmstens empfehlen – von hier aus hast du einen tollen Ausblick auf die Altstadt und Adriaküste.

Von Neum nach Dubrovnik

Nicht nur seit Game of Thrones ist Dubrovnik ein Touristenmagnet – zurecht jedoch: Denn die UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe-Altstadt ist wunderschön! Am besten besuchst du sie aber am frühen Morgen oder am späteren Nachmittag, bevor oder nachdem die Kreuzfahrtschiffe aufkreuzen, deren Reisende die Gassen verstopfen.

Außerdem ein Muss in Dubrovnik: Ein Besuch der Insel Lokrum, um das sich eine dunkle Legende rankt. Hier kannst du sie nachlesen.

Entdecke Mostar und die alte Brücke Stari Most 

Bosnien und Herzegowinas drittgrößte Stadt kennt man, nicht zuletzt wegen der Alten Brücke – osmanische Baukunst und UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe.

Aber auch abseits der alten Brücke ist Mostar einen Besuch wert – am besten du schlenderst einfach durch die Altstadt, lässt dich treiben und entspannst am Neretva-Fluss.

Mehr über Mostar kannst du hier nachlesen.

Lokaler Geheimtipp: Stolac

Die älteste Siedlung von Bosnien-Herzegowina war bereits zur Römerzeit besiedelt. Die pitorreske kleine Stadt ist perfekt für einen Spaziergang und, wenn es nicht zu heiß ist, kannst du auch zur Burgruine hinauf wandern.

Besonders spannend außerdem: Die Stećci – mittelalterliche Grabsteine, die zu Tausenden in Bosnien und Herzegowina gefunden wurde und deren Herkunft noch immer nicht ganz geklärt ist. Das größte Gräberfeld bei Stolac, Radimlja, ist Weltkulturerbe.

Travel planning for Bosnia and Herzegovina made easy

💸 What currency does Bosnia and Herzegovina have?
In Bosnia and Herzegovina, the convertible mark (KM for short) is used for payment. It has been the currency of Bosnia and Herzegovina since 22 June 1998 and was pegged to the German mark at a ratio of 1:1 until 2001 and to the euro since 2002. One euro is always exactly 1.95583 KM). The conversion is therefore very simple.

🇧🇦 Which language is spoken in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
The official languages of the country are Bosnian, Serbian and Croatian, but there are hardly any linguistic differences between them - I always compare them with German and Austrian. Serbian, however, uses Cyrillic letters, which can lead to confusion in the Republika Srpska part of the country. The best thing to do is to download Google Translate, which also allows you to take photos of Cyrillic menus or street signs and translate them.

💉 Do I need international health insurance for Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Absolutely! You should never, never, never travel without international health insurance. Bosnia and Herzegovina is also not in the EU, which means that your European health insurance does not not cover the country. I am always happy to recommend SafetyWingto other travellers. For less than one euro per day, you can insure yourself here and also protect yourself against the risks of extreme sports, lost luggage and other travelling ailments.

📲 Can I use roaming in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
No, as Bosnia and Herzegovina is not in the EU, your roaming package is not valid here. You can either buy a SIM card locally at a kiosk for a few marks or simply get an eSIM like Airalo, which you can even use for other countries after your trip to Bosnia. You can download the Airalo app here.

🪂 Which tour agency can you recommend for my trip to Bosnia?
Together with my Bosnian partner, I founded the boutique travel agency .Cheyf in 2022. We combined our experience in sustainable tourism in places like South Africa with our knowledge of Bosnia and the ćejf attitude to life - savouring the little moments that make life worth living. This has resulted in tours that convey sustainability, local experiences and communities and a real attitude to life. Here you can take a look at our tours and get to know .cheyf better.

🗺️ I would like to travel without a travel agency, are there any ready-made routes?
Yes! I offer an interactive travel map for the whole of Bosnia and Herzegovina, with several ready-made itineraries and lots of restaurants and insider tips. And best of all, the map is regularly updated and expanded, so you always have the latest recommendations in your pocket. Click here for the interactive travel guide..

💦 Can I drink the tap water in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
You can drink the water in large cities without hesitation. Bottled water is recommended after heavy rainfall or flooding and in rural areas. 

🛬 Where can I find the cheapest flights to Bosnia and Herzegovina?
You can find the cheapest flights on Kiwi - there you can compare prices directly.

🏯 Where can I find the best accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina?
Most accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina, including private accommodation, is often listed on Booking.com In addition to hotels, you can also book flats or guesthouses here and directly support the Bosnian population with your stay.

🛵 Where can I book a hire car for my trip to Bosnia?
I book my rental cars always on Rentalcars.com where you can choose from a variety of rental cars and compare prices. I recommend that you always book with fully comprehensive insurance. Think about packing your international driver's licence!

This blog article contains personal recommendations in the form of affiliate links. If you book or buy something via the links, I will receive a small commission. This does not change the price for you at all. Thank you for your support.

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