The Makarska Riviera: an hidden gem in Croatia without the crowds

by Kathi Daniela
Are you looking for a place in Croatia where you can enjoy beaches and the Mediterranean lifestyle without the crowds? Then read on, because on my last holiday in Croatia I unearthed an almost genuine insider tip.

I think anyone who has ever been to Croatia and seen the turquoise blue sea and the sweet narrow streets of the old towns has to admit: Yes, it's simply marvellous here! No wonder tourists from all over the world flock to the Balkan country. But it can also be quite overwhelming. After all, none of us want to fry like a sardine in a tin on the beach or push our way through crowded alleyways on holiday.

We also spent a few days in Croatia in August this year and what can I say? It was our first time travelling on the Makarska Riviera and we were pleasantly surprised. Not only from the landscape, with the impressive Biokovo mountain range stretching into the sky directly behind the sea, but also from the crowds: There were none!

The small village of Brist, where we stayed, was not much inferior to the most beautiful places in Croatia in terms of old town streets and sea views - but we had the feeling that we didn't have to share it with half the world. So here we go: Here are my tips for an insider tip (if you can still call it that for Croatia) on the Makarska Riviera: Brist!

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Where is the Makarska Riviera?

In the south of CroatiaAlong the Dalmatian coast, between Brela and Gradac, runs the Makarska Riviera, which is around 45 kilometres long. It is bordered by the Biokovo mountain range, which rises up to 1,762 metres and towers above every beach along the coast. I really like it here, south of Split. Sea and mountains and how the two meet is just a particularly magical vibe for me! And you often get that here, along the coast of Dalmatia.

The centre of the Riviera is of course the eponymous town of Makarska, The true magic of this stretch of the Dalmatian coast, however, is revealed in its small townsBrela, Brist, Gradac, Zaostrog, Živogošće or Baška Voda. 

From Split Makarska Riviera is about an hour and a half's drive away, to Dubrovnik you need about three hours, because although you no longer have to go through Bosnia and Herzegovina If you don't want to drive over the Pelješc Bridge, you will be travelling mainly on country roads.

Is Makarska too crowded?

We don't need to beat about the bush: Yes, Makarska gets pretty busy in summer. You'll have to share the most beautiful beaches along the Makarska Riviera and the most famous sights in Makarska town with lots of other holidaymakers. 

My suggestion: Visit Makarska for a day and look for accommodation on the Makarska Riviera, where things are quieter and more relaxed. 

An insider tip on the Makarska Riviera without the crowds of tourists

As we drove towards Brist through the impressive landscape of the Makarska Riviera, I was already expecting the worst image of overtourism. But when we entered the village, we were greeted by heavenly peace and quiet, except for the chirping of cicadas and the sound of the sea.

Yes, there may be a lot going on around Makarska in terms of tourism, but it seemed to us as if most holidaymakers were just speeding through the village of 350 people, perhaps already on their onward journey. Their loss, our win

Croatian cosiness: the fishing village of Brist with 400 inhabitants

Brist is located directly by the sea between Makarska and the harbour town of Ploče on the border with Bosnia and Herzegovina. The sleepy village has a long pebble beach that stretches from one end to the other, so to speak, but is not accessible everywhere, with the sea peeking out between the houses.

Brist consists of little more than the promenade, a side street and a few houses that stretch up the slopes of the Biokovo mountains. In this old fishing village, time seems to have stood still a little, everyone knows everyone else - and the Dalmatian way of life is not yet masked by the chatter of tourists.

Beaches in Brist

Like almost everywhere in Croatia, the beaches in Brist are pebbly. I also recommend that you bring water shoes, as we spotted some sea urchins in the water (by the way, you can find them everywhere here - even on the most beautiful beaches in Croatia).

In fact, almost the entire Brist promenade is a beach - which is pretty cool, because wherever you go down to the water, you can spread out your towel. Of course, there are a few spots that we liked better than others.

If you walk past Pakline beach and simply continue along the shore, you will come to a small pier from where the boats are launched into the water and a staircase leading to the promenade on the right-hand side.

There is a huge pine tree under which you can lie comfortably - we had this spot all to ourselves for most of the day!

Exact location48C9+2F2, Brist, Croatia

Restaurants in Brist 

I love the food in Dalmatia: fresh fish, crunchy vegetables and an ice-cold white wine spritzer (Gemišt).

We were in Brist in August, but still didn't have to book a table in a restaurant on any evening - that was fantastic, because it meant we could spontaneously stay on the beach a little longer and didn't have to stick to a fixed time. We had dinner with a sea view twice and were rewarded with the most beautiful sunsets!

And the prices? Totally reasonable and reasonable for Croatia!

  • Pizzeria Porta | Delicious pizza and a dream view of the sea and Hvar, cash only
  • Hotel Riva | Located at the end of the promenade, good fish dishes, sunset view

More highlights in Dalmatia - straight to your mobile phone

In my digital, interactive travel guide you will find 100+ of the best beaches, sights, restaurants, wineries and activities in and around the Dalmatian coast in Croatia - collected over the last three years, during which I have visited Dalmatia regularly and also collected real insider tips.

Create your own itinerary - or let me create one for you!

💡 My tip: I always book accommodation via booking.com. With Genius Level 3, I get a guaranteed discount - up to 25 per cent for some accommodation - and sometimes there are also great extras, such as a free breakfast or upgrade. And all I need is 15 reservations in two years. Find the best accommodation in Brist and on the entire Makarska Riviera here.