A monastery complex with whitewashed walls and stone roof shingles clinging to a rock, you have to lean your head far back to see the sky, the rock face rises so high. And while your gaze is still so far upwards that your neck hurts, you feel a cool breeze and hear the roar of the Buna, which shoots with great force from its source right next to the monastic building...
Blagaj is now world-famous for the Tekija, a dervish monastery. Unfortunately, most travellers only spend about 60 minutes in the village south of Mostar, perhaps 120 if they have lunch. Then they move on.
Which is a shame! Because there is much more to discover in Blagaj than just the dervishes' tekija. Denn in Blagaj gibt es noch viel mehr zu entdecken als nur die Tekija der Derwische. I also had to visit the village in Herzegovina a few times to get to know all the sights and insider tips. But thanks to local friends and an insatiable thirst for discovery, I can now present you with a little guide to the best sights in Blagaj!
This blog article contains personal recommendations in the form of affiliate links. If you book or buy something via the links, I will receive a small commission. This does not change the price for you at all. Thank you for your support.
The absolute best things to see and do in Blagaj: a quick overview
Don't have time to read the whole article?
Here are my top things to see and do in Blagaj:
☀️ Blagaj is a Mediterranean destination with beautiful rivers, where you can relax
🧡 A must-see: The old dervish monastery and the river Bunica
🛶 Best activities: Kayaking on the Bunica, wine tasting
🛏️ Best accommodation: Motel Kolo
📱 Stay connected: For mobile data, you can get the Airalo Bosnia data package online
🛵 Insider tip: Park your car herethen you can take a relaxed stroll to the dervish monastery
Jump directly to ↓
Things to know about Blagaj
Blagaj is located in the south-east of Mostar (you can find an itinerary for three perfect days in Mostar here) in Mediterranean Herzegovina at the Buna spring. The name itself ‘blaga’ means mild - presumably it comes from the pleasant climate, always a little cooler than Mostar.
Today's urban area was already inhabited in Illyrian times, was later ruled by dukes of the Bosnian kingdom and finally fell under Ottoman rule in the 15th century.
Due to its architecture and location, the entire village is on UNESCO's tentative list and is officially one of the most beautiful villages in Bosnia and Herzegovina..
What is Blagaj known for?
- Ottoman and medieval architecture: From medieval castle ruins to Ottoman residential complexes and bridges, you'll find a wide variety of architectural styles in the village along the Buna River
- Beautiful river landscapes: The Buna and Bunica rivers rise in Blagaj, both only a few kilometres long, but with ice-cold clear water and various swimming opportunities
- Mediterranean flair: Mostar's ‘little sister’ has the same Mediterranean charm as the Herzegovinian capital, but is much more decelerated and relaxed away from the touristy Tekija
How many days should you stay in Blagaj?
Most visitors only stay in Blagaj for an hour or two, enjoy the view of the Buna spring from the dervish monastery, perhaps eat some trout and move on.
But you can easily spend the whole day here, whether you want to be active in sports or are interested in culture. I would even recommend spending the night in Blagaj. If you want to escape the hustle and bustle of Mostar, you'll find plenty of great accommodation here.
The 8 best things to see and do in Blagaj
Visit the Blagaj Tekija (dervish monastery)
The dervish monastery is now a national monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina. As such, the building, which was built at the beginning of the 15th century, is no longer inhabited but is now a museum. It is located directly at the karst spring of the river Buna, which is hidden in the cave next to the monastery. The rock faces behind the complex also rise almost 200 metres - the medieval fortress of Stjepangrad towers above them.
Today you can visit the museum and see how the Sufi order lived here in Ottoman times. A visit to the museum is also instructive to learn more about Islam and its different orientations. You can find all the information about visiting the dervish monastery here..
Insider tip: Park your car here, then you can take a relaxed stroll to the dervish monastery without the crowds and you can also peek inside the normally closed complex of the Velagić estate
Boat ride on the Bunica
The Bunica is a short river - only about 10 kilometres long, but unique. The depth of its source has still not been determined with certainty, but it is certainly more than 70 metres underground - making it one of the deepest springs in Europe. Due to the great difference in altitude, the water of the Bunica also flows out of its source at an enormous speed.
Nevertheless, a boat trip on the river is a calm and relaxing experience. In the crystal-clear water, you can observe endemic trout (a speciality of the region) and also soak up the panorama - no comparison to the hectic Kravica waterfalls, here you might even be all alone on the boat.
Would you prefer to be more active? Then you can also book a kayak tour on the Bunica.
Want to book a Bunica boat ride?
Together with my Bosnian husband, in 2022, I founded .Cheyf – a boutique travel agency for mindful travelling in Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Our concept? Bespoke trips where you can really get in touch with locals and immerse yourself in Bosnia. Contact us for a non-binding, individualised travel offer!
Hike to Stjepangrad Fortress
The Stjepangrad fortress - or Stari Grad Blagaj (Old Town). towers on the 200 metre high rock face on which the Tekke nestles. The area where the ruins of the castle stand today was already inhabited in the Iron Age.
The most famous ruler of the fortress was Duke Stjepan Vukčić Kosača during the time of the Bosnian kingdom, after which the fortress fell into the hands of the Ottomans.
Today, you can visit the ruins above Blagaj and enjoy a fantastic view of Herzegovina and its barren Mediterranean landscape from up there. The hike is short (less than a kilometre) and not too steep - so it can also be done with an average level of fitness. Just don't underestimate the heat, so: Always pack a hat and water bottle.
Climbing the Via Ferrata Blagaj
The high rock faces around Blagaj are not only great for hikers, but also for adventurers - there are numerous via ferratas around Mostar and throughout Bosnia-Herzegovina, but the one in Blagaj is one of the best known, as it is also suitable for beginners. You can book a guided tour with all equipment here.
The via ferrata in the Podružje canyon takes around three hours, climbing along the bed of the stream and past cascades and waterfalls. From the ridge of the canyon, you have an incredible view of the Neretva and the plains of Herzegovina on the way back.
I haven't tried the via ferrata myself yet (fear of heights, hello! I'm working on conquering it...), but I think the views look great, and friends of mine are regulars.
Relax and unwind at the Lazy Bar
Located directly on the banks of the River Buna, this alternative bar has a totally chilled vibe in the summer months - you could transport it straight to Berlin. You sit on colourful furniture, jump into the water to cool off or simply relax under the cooling trees while listening to lounge music.
The entrance down to the bar and the campsite next door is a little tricky to find. You have to turn off the main road here.
Discover the art of Bosnian coffee at the Blagaj Museum
This museum, run by the Bosnian couple Sabiha and Haso, is a real insider tip in Blagaj. Haso has spent decades collecting artefacts and antiques from all over Bosnia and Herzegovina. They are now on display in her family's typically Herzegovinian, restored stone house.
Entry to the museum, which the couple run out of love for their country and culture, is free of charge. For a small fee, you can also learn from Sabiha how Bosnian coffee is made - from roasting it over an open fire to eating it with a fig cake.
Eating trout at Restoran Vrelo
One of Blagaj's specialities is river trout, which thrives in the Buna and Bunica rivers. With a beautiful view of the River Buna, you can enjoy freshly caught fish served freshly grilled with blitva (a type of chard) and potatoes at this restaurant - a must.
Wine tasting at the imperial-royal winery Emporia
Located between Mostar and Blagaj, this winery once produced red wines exclusively for the Austrian court in Vienna. Today, the Emporia winery also specialises in white varieties and cuvées with domestic and foreign grapes.
A wine tasting here is a real deep dive into the wine history of Herzegovina and for me an opulent end to a day in Blagaj. You can find out more about Bosnian wines and other great wineries in the immediate vicinity here.
Want more tips and must-sees for Herzegovina?
I've been living in the country since 2021 and now know it really well - from restaurants and must-sees to real hidden gems!
For anyone exploring Bosnia and Herzegovina for the first (or second) time, I've collected over 300 spots you shouldn't miss on this easy-to-use travel map and app.
How to get to Blagaj
To explore Herzegovina, I would recommend a rental car . This way you are always flexible, whether you set up your base in Mostar or elsewhere. However, it is also possible to travel from Mostar by taxi or bus or on a guided tour of Herzegovina möglich.
Hoteltipp
💲 Motel Kolo: right on the Buna with a swimming pool
💲💲 Hotel Buna: Beautiful boutique hotel with a large garden restaurant
💲💲💲 Villa Kozor: A whole villa just for your family and friends
More things to do in and around Blagaj
Final thoughts about Blagaj
There is definitely more to see in the village near Mostar than just the old monastery complex at the grotto on the River Buna. If you want to soak up more of the Herzegovinian way of life and simply want to relax a little - by or on the river - then I would definitely recommend spending a whole day relaxing in Blagaj or perhaps even staying overnight in accommodation right by the river.